High on grass-fed meat


Pasture-raised beef has been getting a lot of attention lately for its health and enviro benefits, but this week it garnered mad props from the New York Times for its taste. Critic Marion Burros reports that in 2002, when she first wrote about pastured beef, "there were about 50 producers, and most of what they raised was not very good." Now, she writes, the roughly 1,000 producers on the scene are getting the hang of raising cattle the old-fashioned way--with delicious results. From what I've tasted lately, I have to agree (an unfortunate incident with smoked brisket notwithstanding).


All this happy chatter about pastured meats comes at an important time for the nascent grass-fed beef industry: Earlier this month, the USDA proposed new regulations that would make it much easier for new producers to get their meat certified as grass-fed. Unsurprisingly in this political climate, the new rules would also let farmers be a lot more lax about caring for their animals; cows could be raised indoors on feedlots, given routine antibiotics, and fed a diet of hay (which is technically considered grass) instead of the fresh stuff (which is far more nutritious). Farmers on the scene today, who tend to see pasture-raising as a whole ethos that encompasses environmental stewardship and humane animal-husbandry practices, are none too happy with the proposed rule. 

Neither am I. As I continue to learn about the problems with grain-feeding (which I blogged about here), I'm increasingly inclined to think that grass-fed beef is the only truly sustainable and humane variety there is. Allowing industrial feedlot-style farms to get a grass-fed seal of approval would create one more meaningless label--and make it that much harder for the truly eco-committed farmers to get the recognition they deserve.       

The public comment period for the new grass-fed label has ended, but you can still voice your concerns by emailing marketingclaim@usda.gov. A sample letter can be found here

TrackBack

TrackBack URL for this entry:
http://www.plentymag.com/blog-mt1/mt-tb.cgi/511


Post a comment

Issue 25



Sign up for Plenty's Weekly Newsletter