At The Risk of Alienating Readers: Horsemeat is Delicious!


There’s a fun article in yesterday's New York Times about horsemeat. Why is everyone so grossed out by the thought of eating horses? In many parts of Europe it’s still sold in specialized butcher shops, like France’s boucheries chevalines, and considered a delicacy. I know the answer to my own rhetorical question: horses are just so cute! But to think that the government is considering banning horsemeat when battery cages and CAFOs (Confined Animal Feeding Operations) are still de rigeur is kind of ridiculous.

 

Horsemeat, by the way, is delicious. Despite the fact that I’m certainly not the world’s most adventuresome eater, my favorite way of enjoying horsemeat is Belgian-style—raw—which ironically goes by the name fil américain. Perhaps I’m a bit biased, but I like the way my grandfather prepares it best. His papery hands mix together the mound of tartare with mustard, pepper, capers, olive oil, gherkins, Worcestershire sauce, Tabasco, a shallot, and one egg yolk per person. No salt. Tremulously, he brings a teaspoon to his lips, tastes, reflects, adds olive oil and another dash of Tabasco. The fil américain comes to the table in a bowl, next to torn chunks of baguette and a rocket salad tossed with a vinaigrette. Delicious.

These days fil américain mostly gets made with raw beef rather than horsemeat—the idea of gnawing on Black Beauty or Mr. Ed (Monsieur Ed in French) apparently makes Belgians queasy, too. If we did more memorializing of our cows and chickens, would that keep us from treating them as badly as we do?

In other news, the Meat & Poultry Journal, always a mesmerizing read (free registration required), points us to the fact that the USDA is finally working on re-defining the word “natural.” As you’ll recall from our recent egg discussion, natural is a word that just means that the product has been processed and that no artificialities have been added—which, essentially, can be twisted in any number of different ways. Many of those pushing for a new definition of “natural” want it to disallow antibiotics and hormones, and it is likely that the new definition will reflect this. Score one for the crunchsters!

Nathalie Jordi's appetites keep her bouncing between between County Cork, New York, London and the French Alps.  When not slinging curd or interviewing farmers, she writes for Travel&Leisure, Conde Nast Traveler, Gastronomica, and her blog at www.autobiogeography.com.  Her dreams of a life spent baking, drinking margaritas, and sitting in the sun are gathering steam during her current stint as a waitress in New York City.

 

 

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Comments

In Switzerland you can buy it at a regular grocery stores. I don't even think it's that expensive, and you can see on the packages that a lot of it comes from North America. Even though North Americans don't EAT horse meat, they surely do export it.

Yes, its true that CAFOs and battery cages are cruel, but the fact that they are still legal in the U.S. doesn't in any way make eating horse meat ok, as you seem to imply. I think most readers would have appreciated if you went more into depth about how horses are treated in the horse meat industry. Since you didn't, I will:

Most horses destined for slaughter are sold at livestock auctions or sales. These often include stolen pets. The cruelty of horse slaughter is not limited to the act of killing the animals. Horses bound for slaughter are shipped, frequently for long distances, in a manner that fails to accommodate their unique temperaments. They are usually not rested, fed, or watered during travel. Economics, not humane considerations, dictate the conditions, including crowding as many horses into trucks as possible.

Often, terrified horses and ponies are crammed together and transported to slaughter in double-deck trucks designed for cattle and pigs. The truck ceilings are so low that the horses are not able to hold their heads in a normal, balanced position. Inappropriate floor surfaces lead to slips and falls, and sometimes even trampling. Some horses arrive at the slaughterhouse seriously injured or dead. Although transportation accidents have largely escaped public scrutiny, several tragic incidents involving collapsed upper floors and overturned double-deckers have caused human fatalities, as well as suffering and death for the horses. Under federal law, horses are required to be rendered unconscious prior to slaughter, usually with a device called a captive bolt gun, which shoots a metal rod into the horse's brain. Some horses, however, are improperly stunned and are conscious when they are hoisted by a rear leg to have their throats cut. In addition, conditions in the slaughterhouse are stressful and frightening for horses.

Yep, you've alienated this reader. For those humane-minded folks against the cruel treatment of animals killed for the meat trade, here are some ways we Americans can help prevent horse slaughter:

Individuals can support organizations such as The Humane Society of United States that work toward the goal of ending horse slaughter. One of our goals is to reduce the callous overbreeding of both sport horses and pleasure horses so that older, injured or surplus animals will no longer be viewed as expendable. A reduced number of surplus horses would result in a sharp decline in the profits of the horse meat industry because the cost of obtaining each horse would rise due to decreased availability. This would force slaughterhouses to scale down their operations and eventually shut down. Horse owners should think carefully before breeding a mare and consider adopting their next horse from an equine rescue organization.

Horse owners can plan for their animal's eventual death by setting aside funds for humane euthanasia by a veterinarian, if it becomes necessary. Menopausal women on hormone replacement therapy can ask their doctors to prescribe one of the many safe and effective, FDA-approved alternatives to Premarin®. (Contact The HSUS for a free brochure detailing these alternatives.) Finally, individuals can work within their home states to pass laws that afford stronger protections for slaughter-bound horses.

According to a Dallas Morning News article from March 7, there is an investigation of alleged environmental violations at the horse slaughter plant in Illinois. This industry doesn't sound very "eco" to me.

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