Writing on The New Farm, the Rodale Institute’s farmer-to-farmer advice column, Mark Lichtenstein writes about his idealistic, motivated two-year-long failure to become a profitable organic dairy farmer. He signed a contract with Organic Valley, one of the organic dairy cooperatives that still has a reputation for treating farmers fairly, so he wouldn’t have to worry about processing, distribution and sales. Even so, managing 30-50 cows ended up being harder than he could handle, and he’s given up.

Lichtenstein’s experience underlines how hard it is for farmers trying to operate small to mid-sized farms, an institution that’s virtually disappeared from this country. The advent of farmers markets, restaurants willing to buy bijou products, and savvy niche marketing have seen some tiny boutique producers make it. They deserve any credit they can get--it’s been an uphill battle for them, too. But what about sustainable producers, maybe slightly larger, whose product just isn’t as sexy? Those who’re selling something--potatoes, for example, or hay, or organic milk for a cooperative--that sure needs to be grown, but might not draw a crowd at the farmers market? Cooperatives may be one answer--Organic Valley, the company that Lichtenstein sold milk to, has kept a lot of small and mid-sized dairy farmers in business, and Niman Ranch has allowed beef, pork and lamp producers all over the country to stay small. A more equitable distribution of farm subsidies would help, too.  

This increased polarization of farming is not good. As happy as I am to see the small producers thrive, we need to have a middle level of conscientious producers if we want organic food to become more affordable and more accessible.