Local food: paradises and purgatories
Alemany Farm
Globalization hasn’t homogenized every place on the planet yet, as I saw on a recent trip to the States. Miami’s farmers market scene remains dismal as ever: boxes of fruit and veggies that looked like they came straight from Costco; cooked crab for sale that was a few days old; and pain Poilâne selling for $12 a quarter loaf? Seriously? Bread airlifted from Paris twice a week? Did someone forget to define “farmers market”?
San Francisco, on the other hand…what a city. Berkeley was a caricature of itself, with long-haired boys playing guitars in the park, women with “Viva la Vulva” tattoos, students skateboarding barefoot to class, and local rhubarb and kale for sale between the library and the student center. Naturally, there were plenty of banker and lab geek-looking types as well, but as far as clichés go, it didn’t disappoint.
I spent one day driving around Oakland, seeking out community farms. City Slicker has taken over five small disused urban spaces in West Oakland and turned them into high-yielding organic gardens that are farmed by volunteers and local community members. Every week, the produce harvested goes out to the community through a donation-only Saturday farm stand. City Slicker also organizes, with the help of People’s Grocery, a sort of weekly garden-raising in which a bunch of people pool their work to set up one free family backyard vegetable garden with two planter boxes, two trellises and a fruit tree.
The People’s Grocery, also in Oakland, has switched to a CSA scheme, but I could see their legendary orange truck parked at headquarters. And the view from above Alemany Farm in San Francisco, which also engages young locals to farm the land, was gorgeous, rows upon rows of vibrant green.
I had a glass of wine and some cheese with the brilliant and very hospitable Bonnie Powell of the Ethicurean, and drooled over menus posted outside Oliveto, Chez Panisse, Delfina, and Tartine Bakery. Everywhere was evidence of an incredible awareness of the importance of eating locally, organically, sustainably. What’s taking the rest of us so long to catch up?
TrackBack
TrackBack URL for this entry:
http://www.plentymag.com/blog-mt1/mt-tb.cgi/4091









Comments
Great post!
I still remember seeing fresh produce only available in shrinkwrap, while visiting central Pennsylvania several years back.
We're just south of San Francisco and are lucky to have so much local produce available. From April to October, we have 2 farmers markets within walking distance! We also have 2 other great year-round markets within a short drive. Truly in the hub.
OK, now I feel like I'm boasting. But I feel so grateful to have choices available not just to us, but everyone in the area. A good thing.
Posted by:matt |February 21, 2008 7:29 PM
Your description of Berkeley is hysterical...and so true. I love it, but it is a caricature of itself.
It was very fun meeting you; thanks for coming over and for the yummy jam!
Posted by:Bonnie |February 28, 2008 11:43 PM